Lost Rainbow in the Mortal World - Enamel Jewelry

There are many wonderful jewelry techniques that are almost lost in the torrent of time, and enamel seems to be one of them. Enamel is a colored glassy substance, usually composed of silicate and metal oxide, which is melted at high temperature and then coated on the metal surface.

Enamel is mainly divided into three types: enamel miniature, plique-à-jour, and cloisonné.

Enamel Miniature, also called painted enamel, is the most difficult of the three major types of enamel. The production technique of painted enamel originated in the Flanders region at the junction of Belgium, France and the Netherlands in the mid-15th century. 
Enamel jewelry mainly uses painted enamel. The process of making enamel jewelry is complex. First, the metal substrate needs to be sanded and prepared to ensure that the enamel will adhere firmly. The enamel powder is then mixed with a specific oxidizing agent and melted into a liquid state at high temperatures. Temperature and time need to be controlled during the production process to ensure that the color and texture of the enamel are ideal. Once the enamel liquid sets, it creates a smooth, solid surface. Finally, craftsmen can further decorate and perfect enamel jewelry through techniques such as engraving and gold plating.

Plique-à-jour is the oldest craft, which is to make patterns on the metal ground by stamping or engraving, and then fill the depressions with enamel color. After drying, it is fired in a high-temperature kiln exceeding 800°C. , and each layer of glaze needs to be fired in a high-temperature kiln for 40 to 60 seconds.

 

Cloisonné, a process inspired by the stained glass craftsmanship of churches during the Gothic period. Cloisonné enamel works are generally made by cutting out patterns with gold or copper wire on gold or copper bodies, filling them with enamel of various colors, and then going through multiple processes such as roasting, grinding, and gold plating.

Enamel jewelry is very colorful, has gem-like luster and texture, is corrosion-resistant, wear-resistant, high-temperature resistant, waterproof and moisture-proof, hard and solid, does not age or deteriorate, and will not fade or lose its luster after thousands of years.